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Know Your Metals, Stones, and Settings

When designing your custom piece of jewelry it is important to know what you're choosing, and why! Below contains basic information on stones, metals, settings, and different facts to help you choose what ring is best for you.

Karat= metal/gold content

Carat= diamond weight 

Lab made diamonds: are man-made diamonds that are crafted in a lab. These diamonds are ethical, eco-friendly because of their creation process, and significantly cheaper than natural diamonds. Lab made diamonds are nearly the same as natural diamonds except their process of creation is different. A Lab grown diamond is made up of the exact same chemical composition as a diamond. Lab diamonds are classified as a real diamond, and test as real diamonds with a diamond tester.

Moissanite Diamonds: 

A moissanite would be classified as a diamond simulant, also created in a lab through a different process with different compositions. Moissanite is chosen because it is cheaper than a natural or lab made diamond, it is eco friendly, and ethical, and the best part? It is more sparkly than a diamond with a rate of 2.65-2.69 of light refraction. The moissanite is not as hard as a diamond, but comes second in "hardness" according to the MOHS hardness scale.

Natural Diamonds:

Classic, timeless, and mined, natural diamonds have remained a favourite and are the most popular consumer choice. A diamond is a solid form of carbon, and it is mined. Natural diamonds  can be expensive. 


 Compare Moissanite, Lab Grown Diamonds, and Natural Diamond properties:

Diamond Element Properties Moissanite Lab Grown Diamond Diamond
Mining Mining Free Mining Free Mining
Eco-Friendly Yes Yes No
Refractive Index 2.65-2.96 2.42 2.42
Hardness 9.25 - 9.50 10 10
Conflict Free (Is it eye clean?) Yes Yes Depends on choice
Fire (Color Refraction) 0.104 0.044 0.044
Luster 20.40% 17.20% 17.20%
Toughness Excellent Excellent Excellent
Durability Life Time Life Time Life Time
Ethical Yes Yes Not usually


$ $$ $$$$

                                                                                               (Diamondrensu, 2020)

Diamond Clarity Ratings and What They Mean:

Diamond clarity typically only pertains to natural diamonds. There are 8 different diamond clarity ratings, and these ratings help us to determine how "eye clean" a diamond is. The more inclusions- the more "salt and pepper" effect a diamond will have. Diamond clarity becomes increasingly more important as the size of the stone increases, the larger the stone- the easier it is to see inclusions. Inclusions often look like small black dots that can be incredibly small or large.

                                                                                 (Rare Carat, 2022)

Diamond Color Ratings and What They Mean: 

 The less colorful a diamond is, the more rare it is. Color can also impact how a diamond looks, it is important to invest in the stone you like because it will last a lifetime.

The Four Cs of Diamonds | Diamond Color and Clarity Scale – deBebians


Metals- which metal setting is right for you?

Choosing the metal that is right for you is highly important, typically most people invest in pieces that are 14 karat gold for engagement pieces and wedding bands.  For custom pieces, we offer 10k, 14k, and 18k white gold, rose gold, and gold. You might be thinking that since certain bands are less pure, they may be less durable, but this is not actually the case. The more alloying metal accompanying the piece of jewelry, the more durable it will be. Gold is known for being extremely soft and malleable, the more accompanying composite (alloying metals) the hardier the piece of jewelry will be.

The only downside to choosing gold that is less pure, is that the color will vary. The less pure the gold, the more pink-toned it will be.

10k- 41.667% pure gold, 58.33% alloying metals

14k- 58.33% pure gold, 41.67% alloying metals

18k- 75% pure gold, 25% alloying metals

24 karat gold is the most pure, and most expensive type of gold. 


Platinum has been an increasingly popular metal to set stones in. Platinum may be preferable as it is cheaper, and significantly stronger than gold.


Setting and Prongs:

There are truly so many ways you can set stones in a ring. Below, we have listed the descriptions of prong settings and bezel settings. These two types of settings are typically the most common and the most "trendy" ways to set a diamond.

Prongs: The more prongs, the more secure a diamond will be. With this being said, 4 to 6 prongs is typical and the diamond will be safely nestled. A prong setting is a great choice as it allows for more light to filter through the diamond. The prongs can have different edges such as rounded edges or claw edges. This does not change the security of the diamond- it is purely based on preference. The downside is that you will need a jeweler to adjust and tighten the prongs every 6 months to 1 year to ensure the stones will not fall out of the prongs.

Pictured is an emerald in an east-west 4 prong setting. These are claw prongs.

Case/Bezel Setting: the bezel setting is becoming increasingly more popular- a bezel setting fully wraps around and encases the diamond. This setting has no prongs.

Pictured is an emerald in a east-west bezel setting



We can source any gemstones you’d like for your custom piece.

We recommend furthering your own research on gemstone hardness to determine whether or not your gemstone is durable enough for a wedding ring/engagement ring.